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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.